When I was very young, much too young for my toes to touch the floor, I remember being lifted up and set upon a round stool that, with a little effort, would gloriously spin all the way around. The prize for not doing this and behaving (like a young lady) was a creamy, strawberry milkshake. Unfortunately, the result of not sitting still but happily spinning round and round until dizzy likely involved a physics word-problem that possibly contained words such as trajectory, force, gravity, and frilly-dress-above-head. Fortunately, this soda fountain was in a pharmacy - first aid was nearby.

Today, we are very fortunate to have a few pharmacies that are also soda fountains and one of my favorites is Wheeler Pharmacy in Chevy Chase. Buddy Wheeler started the store in 1958 with an eating area that provided food from a cold menu - salad sandwiches and ice cream favorites. After a remodeling in 1965, the grill was added and along came the hamburgers, chuck wagons and chicken sandwiches. Today, Buddy's son, Stuart, runs the business and, except for a few small additions, the menu has stayed the same.

Wheeler's is set up basically like any other drug store - rows of sundries and a pharmacist in the back - but emanating from the left side of the building are wafts of coffee, chili, and fries. How can anyone shop here without wanting to eat? The pale, Formica counter is built with two U-shapes and then curves back in to allow for turquoise tufted booths at the end. Most of the fountain is chrome as are all of the retro accessories: sugar shaker, and straw and napkin dispensers. A huge mirror dominates the back wall and a great old, red pestle and mortar clock hangs atop.

One aspect that I really enjoy about eating in public is the sound that is produced by the restaurant. In this particular setting, the cooking is happening right beside you so there is the gurgling of onion rings in oil and sizzling burgers that mix with muzak and stories from the patrons. On my last trip, I heard the latest squirrel and grouse hunting news, which made me wish I had ordered pimento cheese instead of meat, but it was really interesting. It started with two men and as others filed in one by one, each said their hellos and then went right back into the story. The familiarity was very charming.

I have only been for lunch because I can't seem to remember that they also serve breakfast and it's a really good deal. For example, #3 consists of two eggs, juice, sausage, bacon, or ham, toast and jelly for $4.40. Omelets, country ham and biscuits, pancakes, French toast, cereal and oatmeal are also available so I will be bringing friends along to try this soon.

The lunch menu is fairly large and includes tossed salads and delicious homemade salad spreads such as olive nut, and ham, chicken, tuna, and egg salad. There are several styles of burgers if you're more in the mood for hot food, as well as pork tenderloin and fish sandwiches, B.L.T.s, and bar-b-que. Fried chicken, fish, shrimp, and fries are served basket-style ($3.75) as are chicken wings.

What is the fun in going to a soda fountain without dessert? This is the raison d'être. I desperately want to see, when I go to Wheeler's, teenagers completely moon-eyed sharing a milkshake with two straws, but usually it ends up being children in soccer shorts running around enjoying cherry cokes, which is still sweet. Ice cold sodas can be chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, or cherry, as can the milkshakes and malts, which are never as good when made at home and are a perennial favorite. You can have a dish or cone of ice cream or a sundae with rich toppings.

There are many reasons to visit Wheeler Pharmacy - to pick up a prescription or supplies - but while there it's really fun to enjoy a meal, sit on a stool at the counter and talk to the person next to you, or buy a magazine and devour a shake. Another reason is that there are so few remaining eateries such as this in Lexington, especially that opened as far back as 1958. Due to several causes, they could not make it work but we do still have a few gems that have kept their own style and uniqueness and should be visited regularly for a taste of nostalgia (and a milkshake).