I'm in a bar fifteen floors up, just sitting there in a rumpled casual suit. Childhood memories, empathy for others never met, and trite phrases that I have repeated since last Tuesday are constantly with me. The waiter arrives quietly and exits unnoticed. This may be the one place where it is not impolite to stare off into the distance.

The view is dramatic. The Lexington skyline at sunset from a comfortable chair at The Lafayette Club is beautiful and exactly how the initial members wanted a patron to feel when visiting their club.

To eat in the sky has, for many, always held an appeal. Combining gastronomy and panorama, maybe laughing in the face of gravity a bit, creates a dining experience that is unique and memorable.

I went with a friend recently to this very traditional Lexington institution to enjoy a special night out. We started our meal in the bar with a glass of wine and Blue Point oysters with tomato and cracked pepper sorbet with lemon confit. This was delicious and the sorbet will be something that I will try to recreate at home - but eating in the bar seemed to be confusing the server so we moved to the dining room.

One of the most charming parts of dinner was having our waitress prepare the Caesar salad tableside (as is traditional). She rolled out a cart containing little ramekins of ingredients, a coddled egg, oil and vinegar, and a large wooden bowl. After asking our garlic and anchovy preferences, she took her time, explained the process, and mixed a nice salad.

The only problem with my entrée was that I had to share it. "Pan roasted Chilean sea bass with blue jumbo lump crabmeat, sweet corn, and a hint of vanilla" was served with the flourish of covers being lifted off of plates. The sauce was creamy, but not heavy, and the fish had the crispness of roasting on the outside and was melt-in-your-mouth buttery on the inside. It was beautifully served on roasted potatoes with a lobster claw draped across the filet and sauce on the plate, which didn't obstruct views of the food.

This type of food was the original idea for the club. In 1973, the charter membership of The Lafayette Club was formed to create a dining atmosphere that would be elegant and leisurely. Architects were hired and the rooms were built to suit the needs of a niche that wanted to preserve that feeling of intimate, formal dining with a view of the city of which they were so much a part. I think of women in pearls, men in suits, dancing to the band of the evening, and enjoying a special evening out.

Over the years, it has changed hands and relaxed its dress code somewhat, but it still remains a restaurant club that prides itself on familiarity and the best possible service, if you are a member.

The Lafayette Club is currently running a "member for a day" program until October 31st to entice people to see for themselves what the club has to offer. They provide catering services, private dining rooms and a continental breakfast, free for members and a nominal fee for guests. If you have ever been interested in joining a dining club, either for yourself or your business, this is a no-risk opportunity to try it.

The thing to remember is that this is a club: membership, dress codes, dues, etc. are not for everyone. Some people just do not like this sort of thing. As a friend of mine pointed out, she would rather wrestle a sweater on a pig than try to get a tie on her husband just to go out to eat on a Friday night.

The Lafayette Club, in its heyday, was the place to be and their current goal is to recreate that - although I do not know if they will convince members of dress code changes - but all of the essentials are there from the original: attentive service, excellence in food, specially chosen wine, and, of course, the view.

Thanks to everyone who's sent recipes and news for the column. Your ideas are appreciated. (Email: kworkman@aceweekly.com.)