Chef Tom’s Food and Cooking Column appears on page 13 of the Ace Weekly print edition. Text and Photos by Chef Tom.
BY TOM YATES
It’s Derby week here in the Bluegrass.
Let the parties begin.
During the week leading up to the big race, it’s all about bourbon and classic Kentucky fare. Steeped in tradition, platters of beaten biscuits filled with shaved country ham will appear at Derby parties alongside roasted beef tenderloins with Henry Bain’s Sauce, bowls of burgoo, benedictine tea sandwiches, miniature Hot Browns, and versions of chocolate walnut pies. Kentucky Proud.
I’ve always had a thing for beaten biscuits this time of year. With their crisp chewy texture, beaten biscuits stuffed with country ham are perfect bite-sized party snacks. While they appear dainty and delicate, they’re quite the opposite. Unlike their familiar flaky soft-dough counterparts, beaten biscuits are more like crackers or hardtack. Classically southern, they originated in Virginia and made their way across the mountains to Kentucky before traveling north to Maryland. In New England, they’re called sea biscuits because they were staples on whaling ships.
Originally, beaten biscuits were made without leavening agents. The dough was beaten vigorously (for 45 minutes to an hour, about 500 whacks) to incorporate air and develop glutens in the dough for a subtle rise. Beaten, not stirred. Beaten, not kneaded. Back in the day, axes, hoes, clubs, iron bars and hammers were used to beat the crap out of the dough. Nowadays, they use rolling pins or mallets for the task eliminates the need for farm equipment.
Beaten Biscuits with Shaved Country Ham and Course-Grain Maple Bourbon Mustard.
I’ve been on a mustard-making kick lately. When I discovered how simple it was to prepare, I went a little crazy. With homemade mustard, the textures and flavor profiles are endless. Because it was Derby week, I hit the bourbon trail.
I tumbled 3/4 cups black mustard seeds and 1/4 cup yellow mustard seeds into a medium sized bowl. After dousing them with 3/4 cups Maker’s Mark Bourbon and 1/2 cup water, I let the seeds steep for 2 hours. When the seeds softened, I added 1 tablespoon turmeric, 2 teaspoons paprika, 6 tablespoons dry yellow mustard, 1/3 cup pure maple syrup, 1/4 cup brown sugar, salt, and 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar. I poured the mix into a heavy cast iron skillet, brought it to a boil, reduced it a simmer, and let it rip for 5 minutes. When the thickened mustard cooled down, I pureed it with an immersion blender (leaving enough whole grains for texture) and slid it into the refrigerator to chill. Mustard.
While beaten biscuits are a cinch to make, they’re not for the faint of heart because the process is incredibly labor intensive. It’s a messy business. Very messy. Trust me.
I broke with tradition by sifting 2 1/2 cups all purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder, and 1/2 teaspoon salt into the bowl of a food processor. After pulsing 1/4 cup chilled vegetable shortening into the flour, I added 1/2 cup cream and 1/3 cup water. I pulsed the mix until it formed a wet loose dough ball and dumped onto a well floured board. Using a floured rolling pin, I beat the hell out of the biscuit dough, folding it in after every 5 to 10 whacks. Although I lost count of the total whacks at around 280 beatings, the dough was smooth and blistered after 45 minutes. Beaten biscuit dough. Yep. A cinch. Everything within 5 feet of my work surface was covered in flour dust. Everything, even our cat. It was hysterical.
I pulled the dough into a small ball, cleaned the kitchen, mopped the floor, dusted the ceiling fan, and took a long hot shower.
Refreshed, I revisited and embraced the beaten biscuit dough.
After rolling out the dough into a 1/3 inch sheet, I cut it into rounds with a small biscuit cutter, docked the rounds with a fork, and baked them in a 400 degree oven until the bottoms were slightly browned, about 20 minutes.
While they were still somewhat warm, I sliced the biscuits in half and filled them with shaved country ham. Paired with maple bourbon mustard and sprigs of Hoot Owl Holler Farm watercress, the humble biscuits were dressed for a party. Michael and I ate the entire platter with simple skillet fried eggs.
So, beat them or buy them?
Packages of fully cooked beaten biscuits are available in Lexington at Critchfield Meats or any Taste Of Kentucky retail location.
I’m beating up another batch for Derby weekend after I sharpen my ax.
Click to subscribe to the Ace e-dition (delivered to your inbox every Thursday), and read more of Chef Tom’s Ace food column.